Nati (Natividad) is the epitomy of the Innkeeper. She runs a tight ship, giving out orders to her son, husband, and daughter-in-law and does not truck any arguments. For the wayfairer she has a ready smile and is full of enthusiasm for the product she sells. For all her gruffness, she does have a kind heart for the monks across the street and the pilgrims in need of coffee. Her family surrounds her like bees around the queen. Unlike the queen bee, her purpose is anything but singular. Despite her considerable heft, she is everywhere doing everything and handing out orders and advice like throwing bread to the minions. She was born and has lived her whole life in Santo Domingo de Silos. She touches her lips and her heart in a gesture that leaves no doubt about her feelings for her home and her world.
Nati's world is small and very well maintained. The tumble of ancient but well tended homes and shops surrounds the cathedral where for thousands of years the monks have chanted the vespers in this lovely simple church. A single light makes the dark wooden crucifix glow and directs our attention immediately upon entering through the large carved doors. A group of German tourist off a bus line the front two pews. Maria and I sit midway and a small group of locals dots the benches behind us. They quietly chant with the monks. It is an emotional experience quite unique and very unexpected in its intensity. The evening finished with a bowl of Nati's hot soup castellana and a bottle of peasant wine with the earthy flavor the countryside.
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