Hearts on The Camino

Hearts and flowers

Bulging Heart

I’m not sure when I first noticed a heart on The Camino.  I believe it was in the smiles and on the faces of those pilgrims I met along the way.  It started with the huge heart belonging to my companion and friend, Maria.  It seems that she drew hearts to her and therefore to me.  As I walked I found myself mesmerized by the movement of the wind through the trees or the sounds of water gurgling past in the streams.  The sounds and smells of nature surround the path and lay under my feet.  Everyday there was rain.  The path was muddy and treacherous sometimes.  It was in Galicia that I began to watch my feet more closely, to ease the steps over rocks, through mud, and around cow piles.  The first heart on the path amused me, the second brought a smile to my face, the third and fourth got my attention, and then I began to see them everywhere.  Even when my eyes left the path to take in the pastures, valleys, fences, walls and farms, I still saw hearts.  My camera began to ride in my front pocket and often in my hand, snapping hearts up like poesies until a bouquet warmed my own heart.  There is no finer symbol of my relationship with The Camino than these hearts.  I know everyone thinks of scallop shells and yellow arrows, but I suggest to you a different and endearing symbol and I hope it warms your heart as it has mine.

Ribbons of Mud

Brave Heart

Broken Heart

Half-hearted

Finnisterre 5/8/2012

We arrive Finisterre in a driving rain and strong wind. The fog moves in and out around us , much as it does around Land's End at home. The light house sits high above the sea along a craggy coastline with long stretches of absolutely beautiful beaches. One, The beach of Carnota, is considered one of the "100 best beaches" in the world - Galicia: paradise in Spain. Using our well-honed San Francisco fog experienced imagination, we can certainly see the possibilities of the truth in this claim. Finisterre is where the Roman legions were overcome with emotion, seeing the ocean in its whole immensity. I am equally overcome with emotion by where I stand. Only a small portion of Pilgrims who arrive by foot in Santiago actually continue on foot to the end of the road - it is truly "the road less travelled". It seems quite deserted when Maria and I arrive. Blown about by the wind, drenched by the rain, and softly wrapped in the fog, we pose for our final photo at the 0.00km marker. Our smiles and our tears tell our story. I let the wind take the ashes into the seemingly endless Atlantic, giving thanks for all I have experienced in this truly amazing journey to the end of the world. Forr those who might be contemplating this journey in future, I did finally find the absolute perfect combination of wants and needs in my 6kg total kit. I was able to walk 8 of my planned 14 days, and 137km. Maria was able to walk 13 days and 250km. 

5th May - Pilgrims Mass

Maria, Jim, and I made our way to the cathedral around 11:30, thinking to arrive early for a seat. The cathedral is already filling with Pilgrims, a few tour groups, and even some locals. The huge silver incense burner - Bota fumeiro - hangs from the ceiling over the main altar. We find our way to one of the few remaining empty pews. The Mass is especially for Pilgrims and is held daily at noon. It includes organ music, singing, a sermon, and communion. It begins with a recitation in Spanish of the number of Pilgrims who arrived the day before and the countries from which they come. I have read that they used to recite the names of the Pilgrims but the numbers have become too great to accomplish this. When we see the Bota fumeiro suspended above the altar, we become hopeful and grow excited by the possibility that it will swing today. According to what Maria learned from her new friend, the security guard in the cathedral muses, the Botofumeiro only swings 6 or 7 times a year, unless it is a Holy Year ( the last

was 2010 and the next 2021), or by very special request with a significant donation. Fortune and a donor made it possible for us to witness the swinging of the Boto fumeiro today. This large incense burner was originally intended to counteract the stench of the pilgrims. After the mass and communion, the organ begins a loud prounouncement and eight men ( tiraboleiros ) pull on the long heavy rope. High, under the dome a pulley system works with the men and the Boto fumeiro begins to swing in an ever increasing arc up and down the transept, above the heads of the fortunate pilgrims gathered inthe cathedral, a sweet smoke filling the air and mingling with the organ music and the appreciative murmur of the crowd. Santiago, in all three of his forms - moor-slayer, pilgrim, and apostle - greets us from the golden altar, surrounded by angels in every size and shape. Alongside the main altar is a small shrine to Our Lady of Fatima. It is the month of May in which she appeared to the three children. The bright and shining white figure is surrounded by candles and flowers of offering, and kneeling supplicants , the praying faithful. Maria and I have our Pilgrim Passports stamped with the final cathedral of Santiago stamp and then make our way to the Office for Pilgrims where we receive an official certificate of completion of the Camino. I proudly receive this document and protect it from the rain. We spend the afternoon at the wonderful Public Market, greeting familiar faces of other Pilgrims and enjoying the sites, smells and tastes of Spain. Monday: the final piece of our trip - to Finnisterre - the most western point of Spain and considered the end of the world by early pilgrims. It is here they ritually burned their pilgrim garments and contemplated the next step in their lives.

Serendipity

 May 4th,after our thankful arrival at the cathedral, I locate and check into the place where Jim and I have reserved a room for the week- Hotel Costa Vella. 

 It is as charming and friendly as promised with a beautiful garden (which includes a part of the ancient wall of the old city)and and thoughtful restoration of the old building. 

 Maria took off to find her own Pension not far away. As she was looking for the pension, she saw Jim making his way into the old town on foot from the bus station, map in hand, looking a little lost. Maria then brought him to me for a happy reunion. Have you ever considered the moment in time when paths cross and an opportunity stands with hand out? We can accept the hand and a world opens to us or we can pass by the hand, unaware of the possibilities it presents. I have experience with taking the hand and am forever greatful for the riches in my life because of the choice I made. Putting aside my skeptisisim, denying my shyness, and encouraging the pilgrim inside of me, I accept the hand and make a commitment to a world of hope. One thing I must share about Maria, she takes an unknown city and makes it her own in a very short time. She has a keen sense of direction and within minutes has oriented herself, made friends, and is giving out directions and advice. 

 She claims she is visiting on the Euro, not the Peso, and therefore will not spend her money sleeping. Jim and I nap! Met Maria for dinner near our Hotel at Bodequilla de San Roque - delicious

4th May Arca do Pino to Santiago

Leaving Arca do Pino at 8:15 this morning. It rained all night - we could hear it hitting our skylight window glass. I had this crazy idea that the heavens will have emptied their bounty and we would have a dry day. However, the heavens have more to offer and our walk begins and ends in a gentle, for the most part, rain. The path today is long and steep. It is like walking in a stream bed with the rain and mud coming down under our feet 

There are many who walk the Camino over
and over. I believe they must enjoy the absolute peace and beauty of the place. They must find a certain solace, as I certainly have. There is also the feeling of success in managing the many challenges of the Camino. I don't believe I will walk the Camino again. I think one time is enough for me. ...but! The Cinque Terra, Italy awaits and I do love pasta. As we near the outskirts of Santiago, we pass by the airport and reach the Lavacolla, where pilgrims used to bathe in a ritual to cleanse themselves before entering the city. We dream of such purification but bypass the mosly contaminated but beautiful stream. Another kind of stream now joined us as more and more pilgrims head towards Santiago in the downpour. We arrive at the cathedral in Santiago around three pm, too late for the daily noon pilgrims mass. For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have walked the paths we have walked just to look at the facade of santiago's amazing cathedral, in the hopes of receiving the help of St. James to recover or to give thanks. The cathedral and it's surrounding buildings are like a small city and we can tell that our plan to stay a few days will be well used to see and feel the glory and history of this place. I enter the Praza do Obradoiro by way of an ancient arched tunnel -part of the old wall of the city - and am mesmerised by the musician playing what sounds like bagpipes but with a distinct tune that is not Gaelic. I locate the scallop shell in the Center of the plaza and turn to face the cathedral. Although it is not the most impressive of Europes cathedral,it certainly is most mystical in its draw. I stand where millions of pilgrims have stood. Pilgrims all around me stand reverently alone, or greet fellow pilgrims as they enter the square. Some weep, some shout, some kneel in thanksgiving. We do all three!

3 May 2012 Happy Birthday Maria!

Ribadiso to Arca O Pino: 22.1 km Rain, rain, rain with a dash of sunshine in the early afternoon. Natural, and very muddy pathways today, through groves of eucalyptus trees, which on a sunny day, would have provided welcome shade, and today serve to divert a bit of the downpour from our heads. Farms, gardens, flowers; birds are our constant companions. Two memorial shrines remind me that we all have a final journey to make. I live and breathe in gratitude today. Spirituality aside for a moment, the practical challenges of the path remain. For example, bathroom privileges along The Way are on a first come, first served basis. Thanks be to the protective angels of the Camino, there are no port-o-potties to clutter the pastoral blessings of the path. This leaves us the other, more animal and close to nature options, which Maria and I have acrymonized to PDD=pee and drip dry. Maria admits to loving the feel of the wind on her butt. As for the second option of nature's call, we pray for an actual toilette or aeossus to present itself I a timely fashion in a bar or Albergue. We have never been turned down by the owner or manager of these facilities, and only occasionally are we admonished to purchase something or donate to the supplies for the facility. We find ourselves a mere 20km from Santiago de Compostela. Our steep climb this morning out of Ribadiso levelling off by afternoon. As we approach Arca do Pino (known locally as Pedrouza) Maria reminisces about her previous journey here when she missed the turnoff to Arca and ended up walking an extra 8 km. she was careful, thank the gods, to not make the same detour this time.

2 May Palas De Rei to Ribadiso

25.8km - long series of ups and downs as we cross six river valleys today. Again, beautiful green fields and picturesque villages and farms on our path through woodlands crossing the six valleys, each one more beautiful than the last. Highlight for this day: a tiny church just next to the path in a village with only a handful of people and homes- homes of the very old style where animals and people share living spaces for the warmth and security this provides. There are so many of these small churches, every village having one similar, but most are closed as we walk past. This one is open and as we peek into the arched doorway with the green door open wide, we see the interior lit by a multitude of red candles. I hesitate at the door, but Maria goes right through and beckons me to do the same. Inside, a young (rather gorgeous) man stands to the rear of the church and, in his jeans and youth, I mistake him for another pilgrim. A closer look shows his priestly collar. He quietly allows us our time alone at the altar and reverently it seems, stamps our credentials at a small table at the rear of the church, not asking for but accepting any donations to the upkeep of the church with a well placed v Basket next to his stamp. The church is so obviously well cared for. It holds a small statue of Santiago and feels Holy and spirit filled, all the more for its candle lit interior and open door. The last 5 km are very hard today. We tried singing marching songs on our deserted path - we seemed to be the only pilgrims walking for much of the day. Maria is akin to the Energergizer Bunny and Frodo Baggins rolled into one amazing Pilgrim. She just keeps going with her eyes always on the prize. I am more like Sam, whining a little bit, but mostly, following without compliant as long as I am allowed Elevenses at least every two hours. In Ribadiso we stay in Albergue Xunta which is a wonderfully restored pilgrim hospital - one of the oldest still in use - its restorers have won prestiges awards for environmental architecture. It sits just beside the river Iso and it's medieval bridge. The absolute wonder of the place is slightly marred by the presence of only cold showers with a stiff wind blowing under the outdoor stalls. The 70 beds are not near filled so we are able to have bottom bunks in a room to ourselves. Sleep is blissful.