5th May - Pilgrims Mass

Maria, Jim, and I made our way to the cathedral around 11:30, thinking to arrive early for a seat. The cathedral is already filling with Pilgrims, a few tour groups, and even some locals. The huge silver incense burner - Bota fumeiro - hangs from the ceiling over the main altar. We find our way to one of the few remaining empty pews. The Mass is especially for Pilgrims and is held daily at noon. It includes organ music, singing, a sermon, and communion. It begins with a recitation in Spanish of the number of Pilgrims who arrived the day before and the countries from which they come. I have read that they used to recite the names of the Pilgrims but the numbers have become too great to accomplish this. When we see the Bota fumeiro suspended above the altar, we become hopeful and grow excited by the possibility that it will swing today. According to what Maria learned from her new friend, the security guard in the cathedral muses, the Botofumeiro only swings 6 or 7 times a year, unless it is a Holy Year ( the last

was 2010 and the next 2021), or by very special request with a significant donation. Fortune and a donor made it possible for us to witness the swinging of the Boto fumeiro today. This large incense burner was originally intended to counteract the stench of the pilgrims. After the mass and communion, the organ begins a loud prounouncement and eight men ( tiraboleiros ) pull on the long heavy rope. High, under the dome a pulley system works with the men and the Boto fumeiro begins to swing in an ever increasing arc up and down the transept, above the heads of the fortunate pilgrims gathered inthe cathedral, a sweet smoke filling the air and mingling with the organ music and the appreciative murmur of the crowd. Santiago, in all three of his forms - moor-slayer, pilgrim, and apostle - greets us from the golden altar, surrounded by angels in every size and shape. Alongside the main altar is a small shrine to Our Lady of Fatima. It is the month of May in which she appeared to the three children. The bright and shining white figure is surrounded by candles and flowers of offering, and kneeling supplicants , the praying faithful. Maria and I have our Pilgrim Passports stamped with the final cathedral of Santiago stamp and then make our way to the Office for Pilgrims where we receive an official certificate of completion of the Camino. I proudly receive this document and protect it from the rain. We spend the afternoon at the wonderful Public Market, greeting familiar faces of other Pilgrims and enjoying the sites, smells and tastes of Spain. Monday: the final piece of our trip - to Finnisterre - the most western point of Spain and considered the end of the world by early pilgrims. It is here they ritually burned their pilgrim garments and contemplated the next step in their lives.