30th April

We were out the door by 8 this morning. Coffee and toast with jam at the Bar next door. Our walk today is 22.4km. We arrive Portomarin around 3:30pm. A long, high bridge over Embalse de Belesar (a terrific long way down with water rushing, a strong wind blowing and a sudden downpour as we approached the bridge. We were both watching our feet only since a peak to the swirling water below made us dizzy)-at the end of the bridge was a set of stone stairs which seemed to reach towards the heavens, but did eventually lead us to the town streets, which were all uphill, reminding us of S.F. Hills. We found the municipal Albergue at the end of the main street unmanned so succomed to our fatique and checked into a small private Hostal with a shared bath but our own room. Describing today's walk: I don't have the words of a poet or the Devine to convey to you the beauty of the Galician countryside. Green as only Spain (and perhaps Ireland) can be. The trail is often a dirt track lined on both sides by ancient rock walls. The rocks are put into place by who knows how many experienced hands, but seem held in place through time by faith alone. Small settlements and farms hug the pathway and we share it with cows, sheep and their shepherds, chickens, and the scary but harmless dog-of-the-day. A light rain falls off and on all day. There is lots of mud mixed with the aromatic natural fertilisers left by our animal companions. The path twists and crisscrosses a stream many times, often there are large stones placed for our feet to navigate through and over the water flowing along the path. 22km of this unrelenting beauty- a true peak experience. My lame leg did well today. I pamper it with ice and Traumeel before hitting the bed.