2 May Palas De Rei to Ribadiso

25.8km - long series of ups and downs as we cross six river valleys today. Again, beautiful green fields and picturesque villages and farms on our path through woodlands crossing the six valleys, each one more beautiful than the last. Highlight for this day: a tiny church just next to the path in a village with only a handful of people and homes- homes of the very old style where animals and people share living spaces for the warmth and security this provides. There are so many of these small churches, every village having one similar, but most are closed as we walk past. This one is open and as we peek into the arched doorway with the green door open wide, we see the interior lit by a multitude of red candles. I hesitate at the door, but Maria goes right through and beckons me to do the same. Inside, a young (rather gorgeous) man stands to the rear of the church and, in his jeans and youth, I mistake him for another pilgrim. A closer look shows his priestly collar. He quietly allows us our time alone at the altar and reverently it seems, stamps our credentials at a small table at the rear of the church, not asking for but accepting any donations to the upkeep of the church with a well placed v Basket next to his stamp. The church is so obviously well cared for. It holds a small statue of Santiago and feels Holy and spirit filled, all the more for its candle lit interior and open door. The last 5 km are very hard today. We tried singing marching songs on our deserted path - we seemed to be the only pilgrims walking for much of the day. Maria is akin to the Energergizer Bunny and Frodo Baggins rolled into one amazing Pilgrim. She just keeps going with her eyes always on the prize. I am more like Sam, whining a little bit, but mostly, following without compliant as long as I am allowed Elevenses at least every two hours. In Ribadiso we stay in Albergue Xunta which is a wonderfully restored pilgrim hospital - one of the oldest still in use - its restorers have won prestiges awards for environmental architecture. It sits just beside the river Iso and it's medieval bridge. The absolute wonder of the place is slightly marred by the presence of only cold showers with a stiff wind blowing under the outdoor stalls. The 70 beds are not near filled so we are able to have bottom bunks in a room to ourselves. Sleep is blissful.