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Sunday, May 6, 2012

4th May Arca do Pino to Santiago

Leaving Arca do Pino at 8:15 this morning. It rained all night - we could hear it hitting our skylight window glass. I had this crazy idea that the heavens will have emptied their bounty and we would have a dry day. However, the heavens have more to offer and our walk begins and ends in a gentle, for the most part, rain. The path today is long and steep. It is like walking in a stream bed with the rain and mud coming down under our feet 




There are many who walk the Camino over
and over. I believe they must enjoy the absolute peace and beauty of the place. They must find a certain solace, as I certainly have. There is also the feeling of success in managing the many challenges of the Camino. I don't believe I will walk the Camino again. I think one time is enough for me. ...but! The Cinque Terra, Italy awaits and I do love pasta. As we near the outskirts of Santiago, we pass by the airport and reach the Lavacolla, where pilgrims used to bathe in a ritual to cleanse themselves before entering the city. We dream of such purification but bypass the mosly contaminated but beautiful stream. Another kind of stream now joined us as more and more pilgrims head towards Santiago in the downpour. We arrive at the cathedral in Santiago around three pm, too late for the daily noon pilgrims mass. For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have walked the paths we have walked just to look at the facade of santiago's amazing cathedral, in the hopes of receiving the help of St. James to recover or to give thanks. The cathedral and it's surrounding buildings are like a small city and we can tell that our plan to stay a few days will be well used to see and feel the glory and history of this place. I enter the Praza do Obradoiro by way of an ancient arched tunnel -part of the old wall of the city - and am mesmerised by the musician playing what sounds like bagpipes but with a distinct tune that is not Gaelic. I locate the scallop shell in the Center of the plaza and turn to face the cathedral. Although it is not the most impressive of Europes cathedral,it certainly is most mystical in its draw. I stand where millions of pilgrims have stood. Pilgrims all around me stand reverently alone, or greet fellow pilgrims as they enter the square. Some weep, some shout, some kneel in thanksgiving. We do all three!

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